FAQs

If you do not find your question answered here, please contact us.

• I am planning to build a new house. When should I start thinking about the insulation?
  
  
• I have read about insulation and homes. Do you use the same insulation for commercial buildings?
  
  
• What are the differences between the types of insulation?
  
  
• I am getting different quotes from insulation contractors. Should I go with the cheapest one?
  
  
• I heard that foam insulation gives off fumes in the house. Is this dangerous?
  
  
• Can I save money by doing the insulation installation myself?
  
  
• My home already has insulation, but I don' know if it's working properly. How can I tell?
  
  
• Can I add more insulation to my house?
  
  
• Do you guarantee your work?
  
  
• Won't a good insulation system make my house too tight? Shouldn't my house be able to breathe?
  
  This is a common misconception. If your home "breathes" that means it also “leaks.” Leaking your energy also means losing your energy dollars. More accurately, we want the home to have the ability to “dry,” to get rid of excess moisture. Tightly built homes do have the potential to develop excess indoor moisture, so managing this is important.
  
  Weather differences can affect how a house performs. During calm weather, a “just leaky enough” house may still be too tight without good ventilation. Conversely, with a winter wind, the “just tight enough” house may experience drafts, cold spots and other comfort problems.
  
  Make sure your new home will have high quality, properly sized and properly vented bath and kitchen fans to remove excess humidity at the source. A heat recovery ventilator or air-to-air heat exchanger should also be considered. As we say in the insulation industry, “Build tight, ventilate right.”
  
  Many builders already install heat recovery ventilators and/or air-to-air heat exchangers. In that case, there is no reason not to build a tight, well insulated home. Consideration of a high quality insulation system and proper indoor ventilation now while your home is being built will result in an energy efficient, comfortable home with good indoor air quality.
  
  
• My neighbor had mold in his house. How does this happen?
  
  

  Mold in Fiberglass

  Many insurance policies now have mold exclusions, so reducing potential mold problems is important.
  
  Mold spores are everywhere. They need moisture and a food source to grow and reproduce. Ninety-nine percent of all molds are considered harmless. In fact much of the mold frenzy, at the moment, is overblown. Nonetheless, it is still prudent to reduce the possibility of mold growth. We can help. Here’s how:
  
  
  • First, the cellulose product we use is treated with a 100% borate solution (completely non-toxic) which is highly resistant to fungal growth.
    
    
  • Second, the high density of the product and the fact that it seals the wall cavity so well minimizes the moisture in a wall system. Air movement is the primary transport mechanism for water vapor. Stop air movement in a wall cavity and you stop water vapor from entering the cavity as well, greatly reducing the potential for mold growth.
  
  While it is true that conventional fiberglass insulation is inorganic and does not support mold, we also know that fiberglass allows air movement. That means it allows the movement of water vapor as well. In addition, dust and dirt can move through and collect on the insulation (just like a furnace filter.) Mold can grow in the dust and dirt (they are organic substances) when moisture is provided. The Cellulose system significantly reduces the potential for mold growth in a wall system.
  
  
• Is cellulose insulation better than fiberglass?
  
  Your home will be safer with the wall spray cellulose system when compared to conventional insulation. The same borate solution that allows the product to resist fungal growth also provides superior fire resistance. Furthermore, the wall cavities are so tightly sealed that air does not move through: No air, no oxygen, no fire.
  
  Conventional fiberglass insulation does not burn easily but does melt at a relatively low temperature. This allows air to move through the wall cavity creating a “chimney effect.” Fire then can easily jump from stud to stud. Many independent studies have confirmed the superior fire resistant properties of a cellulose insulated home.
  
  Your home will be quieter. The wall spray cellulose system has superior sound deadening qualities. In addition to isolating outside noise, we can insulate interior walls to control sound from room to room.
  
  
• What’s the big deal about a premium insulation system? I know code requires my new house to be insulated. Isn’t that good enough?
  
  Even though your house will be new, and will "pass code," that doesn't mean it is been built to be energy efficient. As one of our colleagues often says, "A house built to code is the worst house permitted under law." And, just because your house is built does not mean it is done right.
  
  Yes, your new home will have insulation in the walls and attic. If you are lucky, some companies may throw in some caulking, too. But which would you prefer: An insulation system that might work to some degree, or a completely sealed wall and extensive air sealing to eliminate cold spots and drafts that results in lower energy bills?
  
  
• Will dense-packed cellulose in my walls settle over time?
  
  We have the latest equipment and training to ensure the product is installed at the correct density to provide a uniform insulation density. When cellulose is installed at 3.5lbs / cuft, settling does not occur.
  
  
• What do you put in the attic?
  
  We use cellulose. It has a higher R-value per inch: 3.8 vs. 2.2 for most blown fiberglass. This is especially important over the top plates of the exterior walls.
  
  Many truss systems will not allow a full 18 inches of insulation over these areas. We only need 13.3 ” to achieve R-50. Cellulose is a denser material as well, so it resists air movement better in the attic, just as it does in sidewalls.
  
  
• Will blown-in cellulose in my attic settle over time?
  
  Cellulose has a natural settled density of 1.6lbs/cuft. Cellulose manufacturers list on their product bags the required depth to install the cellulose at 1.4 lbs/cuft density to yield the required thickness and density to achieve a given R-Value. For example, R-50 requires an installed thickness of 15" at 1.4/cuft, which settles to 1.6/cuft and about 13.3" depth.
  
  
• Will my house be an Energy Star home?
  
  Our system and installation package will certainly meet the insulation and air sealing requirements of the Wisconsin Energy Star Homes Program. However, the program also includes proper ventilation, furnace and water heaters, etc.
  We can refer you to a Wisconsin Energy Star Homes representative to help you with the program.
  
  
• Can’t I just insulate my home myself? It looks easy enough.
  
  Sure you can. And you will save some money on the short term. But, unless you have a good understanding of air sealing and barriers, and where the thermal boundaries of your building envelope are, you just are not going to get a good job. Yes, fiberglass batts look easy to install, but unless you are very meticulous, you will end up with gaps and voids which will greatly diminish the effectiveness of the insulation system.